Cold Process FAQs-Part 2Updated 4 months ago
Additives
What are some exfoliants which can be used in CP?
Exfoliants are materials that remove dead skin cells when rubbed on the skin. Exfoliating materials are available is varying degrees of harshness, depending on your requirements. Some examples of exfoliants that are used in CP soap are:
Rolled Oats, Oatmeal, Oat Bran, Oat Flour, or Corn Meal
Apricot, Raspberry, Blueberry Crushed Seeds
Calendula, Lavender, Rose Flower Petals
Peppermint, Tea, Sea Kelp Crushed Leaves
Jojoba Beads
What is the best way to add powdered goats milk to my CP soap?
Many soapmakers add the powdered goats milk to their CP soap at trace and thoroughly incorporate it at that stage, to avoid problems with their soap overheating (described below).
What is the best way to add liquid goats milk to my CP soap?
Liquid goats milk can cause the saponification process to significantly heat up, which can cause the soap to seize, overflow from molds, and brown. In order to try to avoid these problems, many soapmakers chill their liquid goats milk until it is "slushy" and near freezing. Then they add their slushy goats milk to their lye water before combining with oils. Also, most soap makers that use liquid goats milk generally do not insulate the goats milk soaps….this is an attempt to offset the extra heating caused by using goats milk.
Is there anything special I need to do if I want to use honey in my soap?
Honey is similar to liquid goats milk. It can cause the saponification process to significantly heat up. Most soap makers avoid insulating soaps containing honey.
I want to add oatmeal to my cp soap. Can you tell me the best method?
This depends on the look and feel you are trying to achieve! If you want your soap to really show the oatmeal and be somewhat scrubby, you will want to leave the cut oats unground, and pour them across the very top of your traced soap in the mold. Push them down a bit to create depth in the bar.
If you want the soap to be minimally scrubby and have oatmeal throughout, you will want to grind it in a coffee grinder (or buy colloidal oatmeal, which is VERY finely ground). At trace, incorporate the ground oatmeal into the soap mixture and then pour that in the mold.
What oils are used in a bar of castille soap?
Castille soap is traditionally 100% olive oil. You may find that some soapmakers use the term for soap made primarily of olive oil with some other oils, often coconut or palm oils that increase hardness and lather.
Exfoliants are materials that remove dead skin cells when rubbed on the skin. Exfoliating materials are available is varying degrees of harshness, depending on your requirements. Some examples of exfoliants that are used in CP soap are:
Rolled Oats, Oatmeal, Oat Bran, Oat Flour, or Corn Meal
Apricot, Raspberry, Blueberry Crushed Seeds
Calendula, Lavender, Rose Flower Petals
Peppermint, Tea, Sea Kelp Crushed Leaves
Jojoba Beads
What is the best way to add powdered goats milk to my CP soap?
Many soapmakers add the powdered goats milk to their CP soap at trace and thoroughly incorporate it at that stage, to avoid problems with their soap overheating (described below).
What is the best way to add liquid goats milk to my CP soap?
Liquid goats milk can cause the saponification process to significantly heat up, which can cause the soap to seize, overflow from molds, and brown. In order to try to avoid these problems, many soapmakers chill their liquid goats milk until it is "slushy" and near freezing. Then they add their slushy goats milk to their lye water before combining with oils. Also, most soap makers that use liquid goats milk generally do not insulate the goats milk soaps….this is an attempt to offset the extra heating caused by using goats milk.
Is there anything special I need to do if I want to use honey in my soap?
Honey is similar to liquid goats milk. It can cause the saponification process to significantly heat up. Most soap makers avoid insulating soaps containing honey.
I want to add oatmeal to my cp soap. Can you tell me the best method?
This depends on the look and feel you are trying to achieve! If you want your soap to really show the oatmeal and be somewhat scrubby, you will want to leave the cut oats unground, and pour them across the very top of your traced soap in the mold. Push them down a bit to create depth in the bar.
If you want the soap to be minimally scrubby and have oatmeal throughout, you will want to grind it in a coffee grinder (or buy colloidal oatmeal, which is VERY finely ground). At trace, incorporate the ground oatmeal into the soap mixture and then pour that in the mold.
What oils are used in a bar of castille soap?
Castille soap is traditionally 100% olive oil. You may find that some soapmakers use the term for soap made primarily of olive oil with some other oils, often coconut or palm oils that increase hardness and lather.
Color
What is color "morphing", and what are the best colors to use when making cp soap?
CP Soap has a very high pH while it undergoes saponification. This high pH can cause many colors to "morph" and change color. While some soapmakers enjoy the unpredictable nature of CP soap coloring, many others prefer to be able to accurately predict the final color of their soap. Colors such as ultramarines and oxides most often produce quite predictable final colors. Natural botanicals (such as alkanet root, beet juice, etc.) produce unpredictable shades which can even vary from batch to batch of the same soapmaking recipe. Synthetic colorants (like FD&C; colourants) are not used because the high pH turns the FD&C; colors brown.
I would like a list of the most common colors that morph into new colors in cp soap, and botanicals I can use as colorants?
Blue tends to be by far the most pH sensitive of the colorants and botanicals which produce shades of blue (such as alkanet root) tend to be quite pH sensitive as well. Other botanicals are more predictable - you might want to experiment with annatto seed, turmeric and calendula petals to produce shades of yellow and orange, liquid chlorophyll to produce shades of green, unsweetened cocoa for brown, madder root for pink/red, paprika for peach, and saffron for a beautiful bright yellow.
CP Soap has a very high pH while it undergoes saponification. This high pH can cause many colors to "morph" and change color. While some soapmakers enjoy the unpredictable nature of CP soap coloring, many others prefer to be able to accurately predict the final color of their soap. Colors such as ultramarines and oxides most often produce quite predictable final colors. Natural botanicals (such as alkanet root, beet juice, etc.) produce unpredictable shades which can even vary from batch to batch of the same soapmaking recipe. Synthetic colorants (like FD&C; colourants) are not used because the high pH turns the FD&C; colors brown.
I would like a list of the most common colors that morph into new colors in cp soap, and botanicals I can use as colorants?
Blue tends to be by far the most pH sensitive of the colorants and botanicals which produce shades of blue (such as alkanet root) tend to be quite pH sensitive as well. Other botanicals are more predictable - you might want to experiment with annatto seed, turmeric and calendula petals to produce shades of yellow and orange, liquid chlorophyll to produce shades of green, unsweetened cocoa for brown, madder root for pink/red, paprika for peach, and saffron for a beautiful bright yellow.
Can I use fabric dye to color cp soap?
It is highly recommended that you only use FDA approved cosmetic color additives in soap and cosmetics. Soap has an exemption from the FDA color additive rule but that does not mean you can use anything to color your soap. Soap meeting this definition and exemption, falls under the Consumer Product Safety Commission rules. In the event of a problem, the CPSC will likely say that the FDA has established safety guidelines for color additives in skincare products. It has been implied and frankly it makes sense that the CPSC allows GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) products to produce color. An example of GRAS color would be cocoa powder. Fabric dye does not fall into that category.
Mica can sparkle brilliantly, especially in a transparent soap medium like clear M&P. In an opaque soap like CP, they tend to have a soft, frosted appearance. Some micas migrate while others do not.
How are Iron Oxides, Pigments, Dyes, Lakes, and Mica Colors different?
Iron Oxides (sometimes called pigments) are generally considered to be all natural and will not migrate in soap. They tend to be very dull and earth like in color. The red tends to be more of a brick red and the yellow more of a mustard yellow.
Dyes are water based colors. They are bright and vibrant. They look much like stained glass on a church window. They will always migrate in mp soap. They are the only color that allows a clear bar of soap to stay clear.
Lakes are dyes that have been processed with aluminum, barium or calcium. They are bright colors that, when used in moderation, will not migrate in mp soap base.
How do I know if I used too much color in my cp soap?
If your soap bubbles are the color of your soap, you have used too much color. Your soap bubbles should always be white.
It is highly recommended that you only use FDA approved cosmetic color additives in soap and cosmetics. Soap has an exemption from the FDA color additive rule but that does not mean you can use anything to color your soap. Soap meeting this definition and exemption, falls under the Consumer Product Safety Commission rules. In the event of a problem, the CPSC will likely say that the FDA has established safety guidelines for color additives in skincare products. It has been implied and frankly it makes sense that the CPSC allows GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) products to produce color. An example of GRAS color would be cocoa powder. Fabric dye does not fall into that category.
Mica can sparkle brilliantly, especially in a transparent soap medium like clear M&P. In an opaque soap like CP, they tend to have a soft, frosted appearance. Some micas migrate while others do not.
How are Iron Oxides, Pigments, Dyes, Lakes, and Mica Colors different?
Iron Oxides (sometimes called pigments) are generally considered to be all natural and will not migrate in soap. They tend to be very dull and earth like in color. The red tends to be more of a brick red and the yellow more of a mustard yellow.
Dyes are water based colors. They are bright and vibrant. They look much like stained glass on a church window. They will always migrate in mp soap. They are the only color that allows a clear bar of soap to stay clear.
Lakes are dyes that have been processed with aluminum, barium or calcium. They are bright colors that, when used in moderation, will not migrate in mp soap base.
How do I know if I used too much color in my cp soap?
If your soap bubbles are the color of your soap, you have used too much color. Your soap bubbles should always be white.
Fragrance and Essential Oils
What does EO mean?
EO is a common abbreviation for Essential Oil.
What does FO mean?
FO is a common soap making abbreviation for Fragrance Oil.
What are Essential Oils and Fragrance Oils and how do they differ?
An essential oil is "natural" - it is derived from a fruit, leaf, root, stem and/or flower. It can be steam distilled or cold pressed. Some companies use solvents to extract their oils. An essential oil’s description will tell you the country of origin and the extraction process.
Fragrance Oils can be a mixture or combination of mixtures of natural and synthetic materials. Synthetic ingredients are manufactured through chemical process. They are "man made".
Are EO's safer than FO's?
Not necessarily. Since EO's are all natural and not chemically manipulated, they may not be as stable in some applications. You will also find that if someone has an allergy to a certain plant, the reaction may be exaggerated with the essential oil since it is a concentrated form of the plant material.
Are all fragrance oils water clear?
No, fragrances can vary greatly in color. They can be dark brown, amber, yellow, orange, green, clear. The color is related to the combined ingredients.
Can all fragrances be used in soap making?
In most cases, fragrance oils can be used in soapmaking. If a fragrance contains a high percentage of alcohol, it will cause cold process soap to seize. Some fragrance oil ingredients may cause melt and pour soap to cloud. Above all, you must follow the fragrance “maximum use level” as this will greatly decrease your liability in the event of a skin reaction.
Can I blend my own fragrance oils?
Yes! This is a great idea and allows you to have a scent that is 100% all your own. To blend your own scent, gather several plastic droppers and paper towels. Drop different fragrances next to each other on the paper towel. Allow the towel to sit for 1 hour. Take the towel to another room and this is how your blend will smell. Using this technique will save you money because it allows you to tweak your blend without using large amounts of fragrance oil.
EO is a common abbreviation for Essential Oil.
What does FO mean?
FO is a common soap making abbreviation for Fragrance Oil.
What are Essential Oils and Fragrance Oils and how do they differ?
An essential oil is "natural" - it is derived from a fruit, leaf, root, stem and/or flower. It can be steam distilled or cold pressed. Some companies use solvents to extract their oils. An essential oil’s description will tell you the country of origin and the extraction process.
Fragrance Oils can be a mixture or combination of mixtures of natural and synthetic materials. Synthetic ingredients are manufactured through chemical process. They are "man made".
Are EO's safer than FO's?
Not necessarily. Since EO's are all natural and not chemically manipulated, they may not be as stable in some applications. You will also find that if someone has an allergy to a certain plant, the reaction may be exaggerated with the essential oil since it is a concentrated form of the plant material.
Are all fragrance oils water clear?
No, fragrances can vary greatly in color. They can be dark brown, amber, yellow, orange, green, clear. The color is related to the combined ingredients.
Can all fragrances be used in soap making?
In most cases, fragrance oils can be used in soapmaking. If a fragrance contains a high percentage of alcohol, it will cause cold process soap to seize. Some fragrance oil ingredients may cause melt and pour soap to cloud. Above all, you must follow the fragrance “maximum use level” as this will greatly decrease your liability in the event of a skin reaction.
Can I blend my own fragrance oils?
Yes! This is a great idea and allows you to have a scent that is 100% all your own. To blend your own scent, gather several plastic droppers and paper towels. Drop different fragrances next to each other on the paper towel. Allow the towel to sit for 1 hour. Take the towel to another room and this is how your blend will smell. Using this technique will save you money because it allows you to tweak your blend without using large amounts of fragrance oil.
How much fragrance do I use in CP soap?
The amount of fragrance oil will vary from scent to scent. Each of our fragrance oils have a maximum use level assigned, which is listed under the fragrance's listing on the WSP Website. This is based on the ingredients in the fragrance. It is important that you follow this as it will decrease your liability in the event of an allergic reaction. Typically, most people use 6-9% fragrance in CP Soap (assuming the scent has a maximum use level of 6-9%).
I want to know the specific ingredients of my FO.
Fragrance oil formulas are proprietary. This means that the specific formula and ingredients are the property of the fragrance manufacturer and do not legally need to be disclosed to the public. Most companies will not disclose them because they do not want another manufacturer duplicating them.
What does flash point mean?
Every flammable liquid has a vapor pressure, which is a function of that liquid's temperature. As the vapor pressure increases, the concentration of evaporated flammable liquid in the air increases. The flash point is the minimum temperature at which there is enough evaporated fuel in the air to start combustion. The fire point of a liquid is the temperature at which it will continue to burn after ignition for at least 5 seconds.
Why is flashpoint significant?
The department of transportation requires that the flashpoint be listed on each bottle. It is important for employee and environmental safety. Any product with a flashpoint under 100º F cannot be transported by ground without a hazardous materials certificate. Any product with a flashpoint under 141º F cannot be transported by air without a hazardous materials certificate because of the change in air pressure involved with flying. Products with a flashpoint of 142º F and higher can be transported by ground and air. If you are working in a commercial facility, most fire departments will want to know the flashpoint of the products you are using. This helps them better be prepared in the event of a fire.
Does flashpoint impact a scent’s aroma?
Aromas with a lower flashpoint often smell stronger because they “lift” into the air faster. Scents with a lower flashpoint should be added to a product at the lowest possible temperature as this helps prevent evaporation. As soon as a scent combines with a base, the molecules in that base will naturally prevent the aroma from further evaporating….instead the scent will come out during the product use.
Who is RIFM?
RIFM stands for the Research Institute of Fragrance Materials. This agency performs independent testing to see if the ingredients that go into fragrance oil produce allergic reactions. They make recommendations on what levels these ingredients should be used in products. They list and "delist" ingredients each December based on their research. Manufacturers follow their studies closely.
Who is IFRA?
IFRA stands for the International Fragrance Association. They are the official representative body of the fragrance industry worldwide. Its main purpose is to ensure the safety of fragrance materials through a dedicated science program. This focus is on fragrance safety helps both the consumer and the environment. Reputable manufacturers follow their recommendations closely. They work hand in hand with RIFM.
Why are some fragrances stronger than others?
A good fragrance has a blended aroma of top, middle and bottom notes. Fragrances can smell strong out of the bottle but not perform because they are "top heavy" and lack the depth that your nose cannot detect. On the other hand, a fragrance can smell less than impressive out of the bottle but perform wonderfully because it is well balanced.
Why do some fragrances discolor a product?
Fragrances have ingredients and some of those ingredients have a natural color.
Why do some fragrances turn brown?
Vanilla based fragrances will always turn color...the more vanilla, the more likely the soap will eventually turn dark brown. The color change can occur from days to weeks to months. It is most often associated with the vanilla level in the fragrance oil. It is an inherent property of the vanilla. We developed a product called Crafter's Choice Vanilla Color Stabilizer. This product is added to MP Soap and it will stop a vanilla fragrance from turning brown. It does not work in CP or HP Soap.
The amount of fragrance oil will vary from scent to scent. Each of our fragrance oils have a maximum use level assigned, which is listed under the fragrance's listing on the WSP Website. This is based on the ingredients in the fragrance. It is important that you follow this as it will decrease your liability in the event of an allergic reaction. Typically, most people use 6-9% fragrance in CP Soap (assuming the scent has a maximum use level of 6-9%).
I want to know the specific ingredients of my FO.
Fragrance oil formulas are proprietary. This means that the specific formula and ingredients are the property of the fragrance manufacturer and do not legally need to be disclosed to the public. Most companies will not disclose them because they do not want another manufacturer duplicating them.
What does flash point mean?
Every flammable liquid has a vapor pressure, which is a function of that liquid's temperature. As the vapor pressure increases, the concentration of evaporated flammable liquid in the air increases. The flash point is the minimum temperature at which there is enough evaporated fuel in the air to start combustion. The fire point of a liquid is the temperature at which it will continue to burn after ignition for at least 5 seconds.
Why is flashpoint significant?
The department of transportation requires that the flashpoint be listed on each bottle. It is important for employee and environmental safety. Any product with a flashpoint under 100º F cannot be transported by ground without a hazardous materials certificate. Any product with a flashpoint under 141º F cannot be transported by air without a hazardous materials certificate because of the change in air pressure involved with flying. Products with a flashpoint of 142º F and higher can be transported by ground and air. If you are working in a commercial facility, most fire departments will want to know the flashpoint of the products you are using. This helps them better be prepared in the event of a fire.
Does flashpoint impact a scent’s aroma?
Aromas with a lower flashpoint often smell stronger because they “lift” into the air faster. Scents with a lower flashpoint should be added to a product at the lowest possible temperature as this helps prevent evaporation. As soon as a scent combines with a base, the molecules in that base will naturally prevent the aroma from further evaporating….instead the scent will come out during the product use.
Who is RIFM?
RIFM stands for the Research Institute of Fragrance Materials. This agency performs independent testing to see if the ingredients that go into fragrance oil produce allergic reactions. They make recommendations on what levels these ingredients should be used in products. They list and "delist" ingredients each December based on their research. Manufacturers follow their studies closely.
Who is IFRA?
IFRA stands for the International Fragrance Association. They are the official representative body of the fragrance industry worldwide. Its main purpose is to ensure the safety of fragrance materials through a dedicated science program. This focus is on fragrance safety helps both the consumer and the environment. Reputable manufacturers follow their recommendations closely. They work hand in hand with RIFM.
Why are some fragrances stronger than others?
A good fragrance has a blended aroma of top, middle and bottom notes. Fragrances can smell strong out of the bottle but not perform because they are "top heavy" and lack the depth that your nose cannot detect. On the other hand, a fragrance can smell less than impressive out of the bottle but perform wonderfully because it is well balanced.
Why do some fragrances discolor a product?
Fragrances have ingredients and some of those ingredients have a natural color.
Why do some fragrances turn brown?
Vanilla based fragrances will always turn color...the more vanilla, the more likely the soap will eventually turn dark brown. The color change can occur from days to weeks to months. It is most often associated with the vanilla level in the fragrance oil. It is an inherent property of the vanilla. We developed a product called Crafter's Choice Vanilla Color Stabilizer. This product is added to MP Soap and it will stop a vanilla fragrance from turning brown. It does not work in CP or HP Soap.
Package and Labeling
Do I have to wrap my CP Soap in an airtight wrap?
CP Soap needs to "breathe" and is best stored with exposure to air. Suggestions include a cigar band, breathable fabric, an organza bag or soap box, etc. Some soapmakers find that their soap can get handled a lot and look "shopworn" . In this case, they put plastic wrap around the soap and poke holes in the plastic wrap to allow air to get in.
What is a cigar band?
A cigar band is a strip of paper wrapped around the center of the soap bar both to protect the soap and to give a place for the front and back labels of the soap to be applied. Many soapmakers use home computer word processing programs to be a great way to make cigar bands for their soaps. They look great printed on natural kraft paper.
CP Soap needs to "breathe" and is best stored with exposure to air. Suggestions include a cigar band, breathable fabric, an organza bag or soap box, etc. Some soapmakers find that their soap can get handled a lot and look "shopworn" . In this case, they put plastic wrap around the soap and poke holes in the plastic wrap to allow air to get in.
What is a cigar band?
A cigar band is a strip of paper wrapped around the center of the soap bar both to protect the soap and to give a place for the front and back labels of the soap to be applied. Many soapmakers use home computer word processing programs to be a great way to make cigar bands for their soaps. They look great printed on natural kraft paper.
What is a soap box?
WSP sells some lovely soap boxes! Click Here to view. These are basically pre-folded cardboard boxes which allow the soapmaker to package their soap by putting it in the box and adding a label. The result is a professional looking package which protects their soap while still allowing air to circulate around it and which also allows the customer to smell the soap's scent.
How do I label my cp soap?
The Consumer Product Safety Commission requires:
1. Product name with the word “Soap”.
2. Net weight of product
3. Business name and address.
4. Any applicable warning statements such as “For External Use Only”.
WSP sells some lovely soap boxes! Click Here to view. These are basically pre-folded cardboard boxes which allow the soapmaker to package their soap by putting it in the box and adding a label. The result is a professional looking package which protects their soap while still allowing air to circulate around it and which also allows the customer to smell the soap's scent.
How do I label my cp soap?
The Consumer Product Safety Commission requires:
1. Product name with the word “Soap”.
2. Net weight of product
3. Business name and address.
4. Any applicable warning statements such as “For External Use Only”.