All About Color Additives for Cosmetics

The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act specifically states that Color Additives are
subject to a strict system of approval under U.S. Law. All color additives used in cosmetics (or any other FDA-regulated product) must be approved by FDA. This means that that the FDA assures that the product is safe for use on humans and contains no heavy metals or other toxic substances.

Crafters Choice colors are safe, free of heavy metals or other toxic substances and are approved for cosmetic use.

Below are a few definitions you will need to know such as: What is a "cosmetic?" and What is a "color additive?" The Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, defines each as:

A cosmetic is defined as - a product (excluding pure soap) intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. Therefore almost all skin and beauty products are considered to be a cosmetic (i.e. lotions, creams, deodorants, bath bombs, lip gloss, make-up, perfumes

A color additive is defined as dye, pigment, or other substance made by a process of synthesis, or extraction, isolation, or otherwise derived, from a vegetable, animal, mineral, or other source, and

When added or applied to a food, drug, or cosmetic, or to the human body, anything that is capable of imparting color to the food, drug or cosmetic.

Tip: You may be overwhelmed when looking at all of the color options on the WSP site since there are so many to choose from. Colors will fall within two main categorires Dyes & Pigments

Q: What is the difference between a Dye and Pigments?
A: What determines a dye from a pigment is its solubility - Dyes are typically water soluble, while Pigments are dispersible, typically in oil.

Q: What is the difference between soluble and dispersible?
A: Soluble film completely dissolves, whereas dispersible film just breaks down into minute particles.

Dyes	Pigments	Pigments Cont'
Stained Glass Colors - Dye	Matte Colors (Iron Oxides)	EZ-Color-Dye-(Really A Lake)
	EZ-Color-Pigments	Mica's
	Ultramarines	EZ-Color-Mica
	Bath Bomb Colors (AKA Lakes)	Nutones
	Neons- (Lake)	Titanium Dioxide

Let’s take a look at each color option below to distinguish the differences and discuss cosmetic performance.

DYE

A colored material that is typicall soluble in water

STAINED GLASS COLORS- They are artificial-manmade bright colors that easily & evenly disperses when dissolved in water. They are water soluble and will not mix with oils.

Warning: Stained Glass Colors are highly concentrated, so a little goes al long way and if you use too much you will risk the possibility of staining. Be sure to protect surfaces and clothing when using this product.

Before adding the stained glass powders to liquid ingredients, its best to mix the 1/4 tsp of stained glass powder color with 1oz of water and add a few drops at a time to your mixture until you get the desired result. True color of powder will be revealed once it dissolves in water so customers are encouraged to test (especially with bath bombs composed of dry ingredients, the color does not bloom until it dissolves in water).

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products; such as clear shower gels and clear MP soap bases, dyes produce wonderful clear stained glass type colors.
  - When added to white bases they produce beautiful pastel color
- Migration- In Melt & Pour soap dyes will bleed or migrate between layers so it’s best to add dyes to a single layered soap base.
- Color Morph- Some dyes can morph or change color when exposed to high pH environment and color can also fade overtime.

PIGMENTS

A colored material that is completely or nearly insoluble in water

MATTE COLORS- The Matte colors are Iron Oxides that do not migrate or bleed in MP soap. Pigments are regarded as nature identical. That means they’re the exact same chemical structure as the platelet minerals found in the earth, but they’re created in a lab to remove impurities like lead and arsenic. Cosmetic grade oxides are purified to meet the FDA’s classification as cosmetic grade. They are insoluble colors that provide color by dispersion. WSP carries pigments and oxides colors that are oil dispersible
EZ COLOR PIGMENTS- are a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops. Mixes best in oil.

Note: Matte Colored Pigments are made of Iron oxides and are listed as Matte Colors on the WSP website. The colors are flat and more subdued without any spakle. They tend to be popular (especially in CP soap) because they do not morph & are non-bleeding colors.

EZ Color Pigments are a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops.

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear bases, Iron Oxides produce dull colors and
  - when added to white bases they produce soft color
- Migration - In MP Soap iron oxides do not bleed or migrate between layers.
- Color Morph - Remains stable in CP Soap.

ULTRAMARINES - are bright colors that do not migrate or bleed in Melt & Pour soap. They are insoluble pigments that color by dispersion. Ultramarine colors are generally considered to be nature idential. In their natural state Ultramarine colors can contain harmful ingredients that are removed in a lab. They are made of mineralized sources such as clay and sodium carbonate and are manufactured similar to oxides but instead of washing, Ultramarine colors are baked at a high temperature to produce a powder. The Ultramarine is then washed, dried, ground, purified, filter pressed, dried and ground again.

Warning: Ultramarines can speckle in MP soap & may be best used in CP or HP soapmaking. They are Matte finishes that come in Pink, Lavender & Blue (only).

BEWARE- They are unstable in acidic environments and therefore must be used in an alkaline media above Ph of 7.2, (which soap is perfect for soap), or it will release hydrogen sulfide, a noxious odor and poisonous chemical. (MIXED IN BATH BOMBS PRODUCE A SMELL SIMILAR TO ROTTEN EGGS)

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products Ultramarine colors produce bright colors
  - When added to white bases, they produce a soft pastel color
- Migration - In MP soap, the colors do not migrate or bleed between layers but can speckle in MP soap bases.
- Color Morph - They tend to be popular in CP & HP Soap making because they are stable

BATH BOMB COLORS (AKA- Lakes) - Lakes are artificial man-made colors that typically do not bleed when added to most water based products. They are insoluble colors that color by dispersion; which means that the color does not dissolve; but instead, particles produce color by floating in the base. They are made by coloring a pigment substrate; such as aluminum, calcium or barium, with a dye.

Note: Bath Bomb Colors are extremely popular choice in bath bombs and fizzes because they completely dissolve without leaving a bathtub ring (POLY 80 RECOMMENDED). There are (4) primary colors available, so consumers willneed to mix colors to craft a new shade. Customers should test final product before use or sale.

Warning: If you are selling a cosmetic product that is solely colored with one of our Bath Bomb Color (AKA Lake), the lake must be batch certified by the FDA. WSP only carries the batch certified Bath Bomb Color in bulk size only. The smaller shelf sizes are NOT batch certified.

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products lakes produce bright colors.
  - When added to white bases they produce a pastel color.
- Migration - In MP Soap, lakes can migrate or bleed if they are not used in moderation.
- Color Morph- Some lakes can morph or change color when exposed to high pH environment.

NEONS - Tend to be a mix of a lake and a polyester (filler). They tend to be bright and vibrant and are non-bleeding. This powder disperses best in carrier oils or glycerin.

Note: can be used in MP, HP, CP, Lotions, Bath Fizzies, Etc… Mixing well with a mini whisk or frother will decrease the amount of color speckles in your final product

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products lakes produce bright colors
  - When added to white bases they produce a lighter colors
- Migration - This colorant will not bleed or migrate in layered melt and pour soap
- Color Morph- Some colors can morph or change color when exposed to high pH environment.

EZ COLOR DYES - Although these are labeled as a "dye" they are really a pigments because the ingredients are a mix of Castor and a Lake. Rememeber- Lakes are pigments that are insoulube and therefore will disperse. This is a product made by WSP and is a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops.

Note: Best used in lip products. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops. SHAKE WELL FOR 1-2 MINUTES UPSIDE DOWN BEFORE USE. Contents may have settled. Ltd. to 4 colors.

- Color Perfomance
  - Produces a light color stained glass color in clear MP Soap
  - Produces pastel color in white MP soap
- Migration - This colorant will may bleed or migrate in layered melt and pour soap
- Color Morph - Some colors can morph or change color when exposed to high pH environment.

These are pigments considered in a world of their own

MICA – Mica is made from ingredients formed from mineral rocks and is mixed with iron oxides. Mica Based Pearl Pigments are manmade colors that provide a beautiful sparkle or frost to clear products. Similar to how a colorless soap bubble reflects a rainbow in the sunshine, mica does not have its own color but instead produces color from the way that light interacts with the pigment. To create different colors, manufactures will coat the pearl pigment with thin layers or dye, pigment or titanium dioxide. Crafters choice Mica Colors are water dispersible and tend to clump in oil.
EZ COLOR MICA- are a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops. This product is produced by WSP and made with Castor Oil, Mica and Pigments. EZ Color MICA is dispersible and it mixes best in oil.

Note: Mica come in a large variety of colors and produce a beautiful color and shine. They are our most popular colors to date.

EZ Color Mica's are a great way to add color to your Versagel, lip gloss, lip balm, and any other oil based formulas. They are specially formulated to be extremely concentrated, meaning you only need a few drops.

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products, micas produce color with shimmer and sparkle.
  - In white bases color cannot reflect off the mica and it produces a soft color.
- Migration - In MP Soap, some Mica colors can migrate, while others do not.
- Color Morph - They are generally stable at high pHs, do not fade with UV exposure.

NUTONES – Tend to be a mix of Oxides, Ultramarines and fillers. They produce a deep, rich bright and vibrant colors with a small tinge of shimmer and are dispersible in oil.
- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products,nutones produce bright color with slight shimmer.
  - In white bases color it produces a soft color.
- Migration - No migration in MP soap.
- Color Morph - They are generally stable at high pHs, do not fade with UV exposure.

TITANIUM DIOXIDE PIGMENT POWDER – Titanium dioxide is popularly used in soapmaking for its pure white color and other properties. Titanium dioxide available in different forms including liquid, powder and soap color bars. It is a naturally occurring mineral that is mined from the earth then further processed and purified for use in consumer products. As a pigment, titanium dioxide is used to enhance the white color and to add brightness. There are two types of Titanium Dioxide available on the WSP website and both are non-nano & dispersable.
1. Titanium Dioxide Pigment Powder - for Water - is best used in water based products. Prior to use it is recommend that you mix 1/2 tsp of powder with an ounce of glycerin before adding this to your cosmetic mixture. This will help to prevent clumping
2. Titanium Doxide Pigment Powder - for Oil - is best used in oil based products. Prior to use it is recommend that you mix 1/2 tsp of powder with an ounce of glycerin before adding this to your cosmetic mixture. This will help to prevent clumping.

Warning: Titanium Dioxide can cause glycerin rivers if mixed with water in your CP soap batch. Best to add to glyerin or oil/butter mixture and mix well with mini mixer prior to adding color into your CP soap batch.

Poly80 is recommended if you are adding to a forumlation that will sit in bathwater (i.e. bath bombs, bath fizzies, soaks, etc...). Powdered version will clump so its best to thoroughly mix in glycerin before coloring your product.

- Color Perfomance
  - In clear products, tiantium dioxide produces matte white color.
  - In white bases color it produces a bright matte white color.
- Migration - No migration in MP soap.
- Color Morph - They are generally stable at high pHs, do not fade with UV exposure.

Adding Natural Colors or Herbal Powders

NATURAL COLORS OR HERBAL POWDERS- Historically herbal powders have been used in cosmetics as an all-natural color. It should be noted, that the vast majority of herbal powders are not approved by the FDA for use as cosmetic color additives. There are occasions where herbal powders are added to a product for the primary purpose of adding vitamins, minerals or other benefits to a formula. As a result of this addition, the product color can become altered. As long as the herbal powder was not added for the primary purpose of being a cosmetic color additive, this addition is allowed by the FDA.

Adding Glitter to Cosmetics

GLITTER - Our Glitters are precision cut polyester particles used to add shimmer and shine to soaps and cosmetics. They are popular in teen products such as body lotion, body glitter, suspension liquid soap, and clear melt and pour soap. Not recommeded for Eyes.
- Bio Glitter - is a cellulose based glitter that is completely aluminum and plastic free. They are guaranteed biodegradeable in a natural, freshwater environment. These glitter particles are resistant to bleeding at low temperatures and should not go above 120 degrees, therefore you should avoid use in candles and CP soap since saponification will go above 120 degrees. Above 120 the glitter will bleed and melt. Avoid on eyes. Also usable for bath bombs and lip products (plastic free) and can be added to a suspension soap base! Does not fade in UV light and does not migrate. Available in two particle sizes .008 & .015
- ECO Glitter - in a cellulose based glitter that is aluminum free and 100% biodegradeable. Should be used as an embellishment ontop of MP Soap . Not stable in candles or CP Soap. Cannot be used on lips or eyes. In CP soap the colors will bleed and can change color. Can be added to lotions and liquid soap bases. If using in products that will sit or disperse in bathwater, its best to add Poly80. Does not fade or migrate.
- Traditional Glitter - Consists of aluminum free, precision cut polyester particles. Resistant to solvents, water, UV rays. Maximum temperature exposure 275º F. Not recommended for eye contact. Great in CP & MP Soap as well as lip products. Excellent in body lotions, body glitter and clear mp soap. Not approved for eye contact. Free of minerals and pigments. Does not fade or migrate.

Caution - Do not use standard craft glitter in your cosmetics as the particle size is generally too large. While there is no government regulation for the particle size that can be used in cosmetics, the cosmetic industry standard is 0.004" and 0.008". These smaller sizes will lessen your liability in the event a cosmetic with glitter gets into an eye and there is an eye injury.

Adding Food Coloring to Cosmetics

FOOD COLORING- It is a common misconception is that food dyes can be used in cosmetics, but this is not true of all food dyes. There are a few examples; listed below, of food dyes that are not approved for cosmetic use. The full list of approved dyes can be found on the FDA website. To avoid any miss-haps with the FDA, its best that the consumer stick with FDA approved cosmetic dyes such as our Stained Glass Colors.
- Blue 2
- Red 2
- Red 3

Important Things to Note:

Color Usage Rates: Typically we recommend starting with a ratio of 1tsp per pound of product. Using too much color may cause staining. Test your final product to ensure optimal performance and no staining. Protect work areas and clothing when mixing.

Batch Certification: Our Colors (with the exception of the Bath Bomb Lakes) are exempt from certification. These color additives are obtained primarily from mineral, plant, or animal sources. They are not subject to batch certification requirements. Bath Bomb Lakes are subject to batch certification requirements. For more information, see warning label above in Bath Bomb Lake section.

Soap Color Blocks - WSP carries a variety of Soap Colors blocks that are specifically used to color Melt & Pour Soap. The soap color blocks can be found in Stained Glass colors, as well as Mica's, Matte, Ultramarine, Titanium Dioxide, and Neons. The color is dispersed into MP soap and are bright, glossy and potent. One color block cube colors approximately five pounds of MP soap. The soap color bars will make coloring MP Soap very easy when melted and added to your melted soap base. For the truest color results, we recommend using these in a clear MP soap base. When used in an opaque soap base the end result will be a soft color.

All About Color Additives for CosmeticsUpdated 4 months ago